Plumbing Examples

Plumbing Repair & Installation Examples Page

We will Explain & Show you Common Plumbing Work for your Knowledge.

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Our Video’s and Explanations are For Educational Purposes Only. We are here to Provide Powerful knowledge to you, not for your attempt. This knowledge will help you ensure your Plumbing Contractors Provided the Plumbing Service That is Expected.

Let’s Face it if you are not a Plumbing Professional to begin with, attempting a Plumbing Issue may be a daunting task.

Common Homeowner Installation/Replacement Problems Includes:

  1. Not knowing the proper names of parts
  2. Buying too much or too little making multiple trips to the store wasting money
  3. Completing the job the wrong way and still paying a professional
  4. Supposedly completed the work but it leaks
  5. Actually broke more than you fixed
  6. Corrected issue with the wrong parts causing further issue later down the road
  7. Using inadequate products producing accelerated wear and usage problems

Explore our Web Page www.TheSelfMadePlumber.com to inherently gain our many years of Experience Performing Plumbing Repairs

FREE Plumbing Examples

Water Heater - Plumbing Repair/Installation Examples

How To Replace Your Water Heater

How to Turn off & Drain your Water Heater

  • First turn off Water Supply valve to the Water Heater
  • Turn off gas valve going to the Water Heater
  • Check Main Water Valve for functionality in case of an emergency you want to be able to turn the water off to the home should a leak occur or the Water Heater Valve needs replacing. Click here for what to do if you can not turn the valves off
  • Connect a garden hose to bottom of drain plug
  • Run Hose to a floor drain or basin before opening valve to drain-once the valve is open the water may not drain from the heater so you must open up a hot side of a faucet so that we break the air lock to start the draining of the water heater recommended to open one tub or shower valve on the highest floor of the home and one faucet on the lowest level of the home. Click here if your Water Heater is not draining sufficiently.
  • While you are waiting for the water comes to a stop in the lowest level faucet you may begin to disconnect the Gas or Electric

How To Disconnect Gas Line & Exhaust Vent From Water Heater

  • Hold back on the opposite side of the union nut and turn the union nut in a counter clockwise rotation Click here for how to disconnect a union/piping
  • Once the union is disconnected you can un-thread the pipe nipples back to the Water Heater store close by for the re-install
  • Use a nut driver end on a drill to remove the sheet metal screws connecting the gas pipe exhaust vent on the top of the Water Heater then pull apart the Flue pipe

And, How to Disconnect Electric From Water Heater

  • Turn off circuit fuse supply to the Electric Water Heater
  • Use electrical meter on electrical supply wires to test if the fuse turned the power off to the water heater
  • Now that the wires have no electricity running through them you may disconnect the electrical wire be sure to remember What colors are paired to what colors in your old water heater.  If you do not know if the Water Heater Electrical Requirement are the same consult an electrician.  Most Residential Water Heaters use the same electrical load where no electrical modifications are needed.

Water Heater Installation Notes and Set-up

  • By this time the water level should be drained down low enough to disconnect the Water Heater without water flooding out of the line
  • Disconnect the 2 unions or supply line connecting the water heater
  • If your unions will not come apart CLICK HERE
  • Need to know how to disconnect a Re-circulating line CLICK HERE
  • For how to disconnect a union/piping CLICK HERE
  • Disconnect the Temperature Pressure Relief valve (T&P Valve) Pipe Set aside for re-install
  • Now the Water Heater is Completely disconnected from Gas/Electric, Exhaust if applicable, and Water Lines
  • Remove the old Water Heater and make sure the ground is swept up and clear of debris that could un-level the water heater

Installing the Water Heater

  • By this time the water level should be drained down low enough to disconnect the Water Heater without water flooding out of the line
  • Disconnect the 2 unions or supply line connecting the water heater
  • If your unions will not come apart CLICK HERE
  • Need to know how to disconnect a Re-circulating line CLICK HERE
  • For how to disconnect a union/piping CLICK HERE
  • Disconnect the Temperature Pressure Relief valve (T&P Valve) Pipe Set aside for re-install
  • Now the Water Heater is Completely disconnected from Gas/Electric, Exhaust if applicable, and Water Lines
  • Remove the old Water Heater and make sure the ground is swept up and clear of debris that could un-level the water heater
  • Position Water Heater for Supply hook-up
  • ‘Use a level and shims to ensure the New Water Heater is as level as possible.
  • First you want to connect your Water Lines
  • Click Here for Different Installation Examples
  • Screw the Temperature Pressure Relief Valve (T&P Valve) tube onto the new water heater
  • Check for leaks as the tank is filling Open the Water Supply Valve 1/4 to 1/2 open to fill the system slowly 
  • Turn water Back off should there be a leak and fix the problem before trying again
  • Click here to figure out how to fix your leak.
  • Once water is steadily coming out of the open faucets from earlier turn them off.

Lighting Your Water Heater

  • Turn the gas control Nob/Dial to Pilot
  • Press and hold Pilot Button for 1 minute before trying to light the Water Heater
  • While holding the pilot button for the minute press/click the striker ” Watch the spark through the window in the bottom of the water heater to make sure the pilot is lit.”
  • Once Lit hold the pilot button for 1 minute before letting go or unpressing the button. If the pilot light goes out you must restart the process.
  • Once a minute has past and the pilot does not go out once pilot button is depressed you may set your water heater temperature accordingly. Most Houses are set at B or Medium Heat

Sump Pump – Plumbing Repair/Installation Examples

How to Change/Swap out a Sump Pump

How to Disconnect a Sump Pump
  • UNPLUG THE CORDS SUPPLYING POWER TO YOUR PUMP
  • Remove the Sump Basin Lid and any bolts securing the Lid
  • Use a nut Driver to loosen Hose Clamps on Pipe or 2 Wrenches to take a Union Free
  • With the Discharge Pipe disconnected Remove the pump and pipe from the Basin
  • Lay the pump on its side and use a wrench to un thread the old discharge pipe from the Sump pump. Common Pipe size and thread type is 1 1/2″ Male Thread
  • Click Here For How to test a Sump Pump Check Valve
How to Install a Sump Pump
  • Thread new or existing pipe into the pump
  • Position Pump in pit so that the float switch can move freely without hitting the side of the pit or any obstructions. Float position should keep the basin water below the incoming drain tile piping
  • Re-install Sump Basin Lid Secure with Bolts if Available
  • Connecting the rubber coupling by the house clamps or threading the union tightly together. If using a new pipe it is customary to install a piece approximately 1ft long and cutting to fit once the pump is resting where it should in the basin.
  • Pour Water into the Sump Pump Basin to ensure proper pump operation and the pump stops when finished pumping if not you must position the pump so that the float closes every time or leveling the bottom of the pit must be necessary

Sewage Ejector Pump – Plumbing Repair/Installation Examples

Replacing a Sewage Ejector Pump

How to Disconnect a Sewage Ejector Pump
  • UNPLUG THE CORDS SUPPLYING POWER TO YOUR PUMP
  • If there is a valve above the Check Valve on the Pumps Discharge Pipe Close it
  • Remove all screws fastening the Ejector Lid to the Basin
  • Remove all screw fastening the pipe grommets to the Ejector Basin
  • Disconnect the Unions or Hose clamps connecting the pipes that lead into the Ejector Basin
  • Remove Lid & Pump from the Basin
How to Install a Sewage Ejector Pump
  • Either thread old pipe into new Ejector pump or thread the new pipe into the Ejector Pump
  • Clean off the rim of the Ejector Basin Where the lid fits recessed when bolted
  • Place Pump into the basin Lined up with the existing piping from the home
  • Place Lid over Pump Piping ensure the cord goes through its designated hole with rubber plug
  • Ensure the pump has good placement where the float can go up and down freely without being caught on anything when the lid is in place
  • You can either clamp the lid up on the pipe or Remove the Lid to install the gasket material were the lid fastens to the Basin to ensure a Water/Gas Tight Bolted Connection
  • Now you may bolt the lid into place with the pump in the Basin
  • When Re-installing the pipe Grommets you should replace the rubber O-rings that ensure the Water/Gas Tight seal in between the piping and the lid.
  • Bolt Grommets to the Lid
  • Connect Pump and Vent Piping Unions or Hose Clamps
  • Open the Valve if there is one above the check valve
  • Plug the pump in
  • Check for leaks in above piping may use a small camera to look through cord opening to inspect pump once installed to ensure piping
  • Got Problems you will have to take it apart and correct the issue before Re-installing

Water Line – Plumbing Examples

Why does galvanized Piping Leak?

Galvanized Pipe may leak for a variety of reasons which may occur in the center of the piping and they also may occur where pipe is threaded into the Fittings. Common reasoning for why it leaks is simple Galvanized pipe is Mild Steel pipe with supposedly safe Zinc coating stop corrosion. Steel is known for not withstanding corrosive environment very well.

How to Replace Galvanized Pipe

How to Replace a Center Section of Galvanized Piping
  • MUST HAVE THE WATER OFF AND THOUROUGHLY DRAINED BEFORE WORKING SO YOU DO NOT GET BURNED, HURT, OR CAUSE DAMAGE
  • Have the appropriate size union for the size pipe you are working on
  • If the section of pipe that is leaking is less than the cut away piece of material for the union to fit CUT THE SECTION OF PIPE OUT FOR THE INSTALLATION OF THE UNION IF NOT GO TO LOWER INSTRUCTIONS IN THIS LIST
  • Use a Hand Ratchet to put threads on the 2 pipe ends
  • Use Liquid Thread sealer lightly on the threads then wrap Teflon Tape min 3X around
  • Thread the 2 ends of the unions on the ends of the pipes
  • Use a light Liquid Thread Sealer on the union threads
  • Tighten Union
  • Test by slowly turning the water back on
  • LARGER THAN THE TAKE OFF OF THE UNION
  • You will have to unthread the pipe out of one side
  • You a hand ratchet and thread the remaining cut piece of pipe in the ceiling
  • Screw the union on and take a measurement for the new piece of pipe you will need
  • Go to the store have them cut and thread the pipe for you
  • Install piping and union with above method
How to use a Water Repair Clamp on a Leaking Piece of Galvanized Pipe
  • MUST HAVE THE WATER OFF AND THOUROUGHLY DRAINED BEFORE WORKING SO YOU DO NOT GET BURNED, HURT, OR CAUSE DAMAGE
  • If the leak is not bad you may use a Stainless Steel Repair Clamp Sizes 1/2″-3″
  • Loosen hose clamps or hardware on Clamp
  • Place the leak in the center of the rubber gasket
  • Hold clamp to ensure it does not move while tightening the hardware

Drain Line Replacement – Plumbing Examples

How to Replace a P-trap and Sink Drain Assemblies
  • Place Small Bucket under P-trap
  • Loosen Compression nuts on the U part which is referred to as the p-trap
  • If other tubular Compression drain Parts are Bad Loosen and take off
  • Make sure new parts are the same size and length
  • Put all tubular parts in place and catch threads on the fittings but do not tighten thoroughly
  • You may now place install the p-trap and catch the threads but do not thoroughly tighten
  • Make sure the piping is centered in alignment like the original before tightening
  • NOTE TAPERED NYLON WASHER GO INTO THE FITTINGS AND THE FLAT SIDE GOES AGAINST THE COMPRESSION NUT THAT TIGHTENS TO THE FITTING

Backed-up Drain/ Clogged Drain – Plumbing Examples

HOW TO CLEAR A MAIN LINE STOPPAGE / HOW TO CLEAR MY HOMES MAIN SEWER LINE
Rodding / Snaking My Main Sewer Line From a Outside Clean-out
  • POWER RODDING IS DANGEROUS AND ONLY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS SHOULD HANDLE THESE LARGE MACHINES
  • Find the outside clean out
  • Remove cover
  • If it is holding water blockage is towards the street when the water is backed up in the home at that time
  • USE A MINIMUM 11/16″ POWER ROD AND ROD THE LINE OUT TO THE STREET WITH A SINGLE OR DOUBLE CUTTER
  • If it is not holding water when the home is backed up at that time the blockage is back towards the home
  • USE A MINIMUM 11/16″ POWER ROD AND ROD THE LINE BACK INTO THE HOME WITH A SINGLE OR DOUBLE CUTTER MUST BE CAUTIOUS HOW FAR IN YOU GO IN MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT COME UP A FLOOR DRAIN OR TOILET NEVER FORCE THE ROD
  • Line is still backed up after the 1st attempt repeat the steps and try again
Rodding / Snaking My Main Sewer Line From an Inside Clean-out

Beware Removing the Clean-out Cap from inside the home may cause severe damage and pose a health concern using a qualified professional is recommended. When removing the cap the line may be charged with sewage water so upon removal pressurized sewage water will come out.

  • Make sure any pump running into the sewer line is disconnected before working on the line
  • Remove Cap once there is no water in the line
  • USE A MINIMUM 11/16″ POWER ROD AND ROD THE LINE GOING OUT WITH A SINGLE OR DOUBLE CUTTER
  • MUST BE CAUTIOUS IF THE CABLE GETS BOUND TURN OFF MACHINE AND MANUALLY FREE THE CABLE BEFORE CONTINUING MAY HAVE TO PULL THE CABLE ALL THE WAY BACK OUT TO SEE IF THERE IS ANYTHING ON THE END OF IT BEFORE RODDING MORE
  • Drain Still backed up after the first attempt rod the line again and see what happens
  • Once it is cleared and your clean-out cap does not leak plug back in any pump that ties into your sewer that you unplugged prior to the work

Faucet – Plumbing Repair/Installation Examples

How To Replace my Kitchen and Bathroom Sink Faucets

How to Remove old Bathroom or Kitchen Sink Faucet
  • Place towel underneath the cabinet you are working in
  • Turn water off to the faucet from the stop valves underneath the sink
  • Use a Basin Wrench or a Ridgid Multi-tool to loosen and break the connection from the supply line to the faucet water inlets
  • Use the Basin Wrench to remove the nut or nuts holding the faucet to the sink
  • Disconnect and remove the side hose sprayer IF YOU ARE WORKING ON A KITCHEN SINK FAUCET WITH A SIDE SPRAYER
  • Normally a quick disconnect to push a button, slide a clip, or unthread the connection of the hose sprayer
  • Remove the Faucet, Hose Sprayer, and clean underneath where the old faucet was
How to Install a New Bathroom or Kitchen Sink Faucet
  • Place the faucet in the appropriate holes on the sink for installation
  • Tighten fastening nuts from underneath with a basin wrench
  • Connect Water Supply lines to the sink faucet with a Basin Wrench
  • If working on a Kitchen Sink you may have to hand thread the spout onto the body of the faucet once everything else is done
  • If your faucet has a sprayer you must feed the hose through and connect to the body of the faucet from underneath by means of a push ‘n’ click style, cotter pin construction, or by threaded means
  • You may turn the water on now to test the faucet and make sure there is no leaks
  • If leaks occur you may have to apply some thread sealant or Teflon tape to the threads of where the water line attach or Replace the supply lines leading from the stop valve to the faucet
  • Unscrew the aerator and clean if you are experiencing pressure issues after the installation

 

Toilet - Plumbing Repair/Installation Examples

How to Replace my Toilet

How to Remove a Toilet

  • Place large towel on floor
  • Turn water off from the stop valve on the left side of the toilet to the back on the floor/wall.
  • Flush Toilet to drain as much water as possible
  • Use a Wet Vacuum to suck the rest of the water out of the bowl and tank of the Toilet
  • Once you know the water is completely shut off to the Toilet Loosen and Remove Water Supply line leading to the Toilet
  • Remove the nuts and washers fastening the toilet to the floor
  • Remove tank from toilet and carry out in 2 pieces or use 2 people to carry the whole toilet out of the home
  • Make sure the Toilet Flange / Closet Collar is clean and remove any old toilet bolts
How to Install a New Toilet
  • Place Wax Ring on Toilet Flange / Toilet Collar
  • Place new Toilet Bolts / Closet Bolts in place
  • Lifting and Placing just the Toilet Bowl into place gently making sure the Toilet Bolts / Closet Bolts slid through the Mounting Holes in the Toilet without displacing them
  • Center the Toilet
  • Sit on the bowl and rock back ‘n’ forth as the wax ring compresses to the floor and the toilet sits flat
  • Un-level surfaces require shimming of the Toilets
  • Use new Toilet Cap bottom, Stainless Washer, and Brass nut to tighten the Toilet to the Floor
  • Now place the spud gasket onto the bottom of the Toilet Tank
  • Set Toilet Tank on to Bowl and Use provided Hardware to fasten the tank to the bowl
  • Inside of the tanks are adjusted at the factory no work required on the inside of the tanks unless noted
  • Connect a new Water Supply line
  • Install new toilet seat per instructions
  • CAREFULLY Turn water on and test by flushing TURN OFF SHOULD ANYTHING IMMEDIATELY LEAK
  • IF WATER LINE IS LEAKING- TEFLON TAPE, THREAD SEALANT, OR A NEW SUPPLY LINE MAY BE NEEDED.
  • LEAKS COMING FROM THE BASE WHEN FLUSHED- YOU MUST TURN OFF, DRAIN, DISCONNECT, AND REASSEMBLE WITH A LARGER WAX RING
  • WHEN FLUSHED IF A LEAK COMES FROM INBETWEEN THE TANK AND THE BOWL- YOU MUST TURN OFF, DRAIN, LOOSEN TANK TO BOWLS SET, ADJUST POSITION, AND/OR MAKE SURE YOU INSTALLED THE BLACK RUBBER WASHER ON THE INSIDE OF THE TANK AND THE HARDWARE IS TIGHT BEFORE TESTING AGAIN

Sink Plumbing Examples

How to Replace a Kitchen Sink Basket Strainer

How to Disconnect a Kitchen Sink Basket Strainer

  • Place Towel in the cabinet you are working in
  • Disconnect drain piping attaching to the Basket Strainer
  • If Thumb Screw style loosen thumb screws
  • Hold back on the strainer with a Strainer Wrench as you unthread the thumb screw harness from the Basket Strainer
  • If Single Nut Style Basket Strainer hold back the strainer with a Strainer Wrench and unthread the fastening nut on the basket strainer.
  • Make sure the rubber gasket is removed from underneath
  • Push up on the strainer from underneath to dislodge it from the sink
  • Clean old putty from sink and throw out the old basket Strainer
How to Install a New Basket Strainer
  • kneed a roll of putty as thick as a large pen and place around the under edge of the basket strainer slightly push flat and only make a complete circle put the rest back Putty less seals are used as well as 100% silicon inside of putty for various reasons most being is the putty less, no stain putty, or silicon will not stain hard surface material
  • Push strainer seating it in the recessed part of the sink made for the Basket Strainer
  • Place black washer than paper washer before you thread the fastening nut on or Thumb Screw harness onto the Basket Strainer
  • Use Strainer Wrench to hold back the Strainer as you either tighten the single fastening nut or the tightening thumb screws to secure the Basket Strainer to the Sink
  • Peel excessive putty back from the strainer inside of the sink
  • Connect Drain Pipe Under the sink
  • Place bucket or pan underneath the sink
  • Test by slowly running water looking for leaks
  • If all is good then plug and fill the sink to check for further leaks
  • If leaks occur you may not have been tight enough, had to much or to little putty, or needs adjusting. Only way to correct it is by disassembling and re-installing the strainer test in the same fashion

Bath Tub & Shower Base Plumbing Examples

 

How to Replace a Bath Tub

How to Remove a Bath Tub

  • Remove Drain Strainer with a Tub Strainer Wrench
  • Use a Screw Driver to Remove the bolted Overflow Cover from the Bath Tub
  • Wall to Wall Standard Tubs need at least 3 rows of tiles removed or all of them for the walls or the surround if applicable and a full tub length of Clarence to slide the tub out of the wall 2 wall section or the tub will have to be lifted from one end standing it up for removal- May require removal of toilet and vanity from bathroom depending on the proximity to the Bath Tub
  • Other tubs just need the caulk seem cut and for a way to lift the tub out of place
  • Claw Foot Bath Tubs and Drop-in Bath Tubs may require Faucets to be disconnected during Removal

How to Install a New Bath Tub

  • Ensure Piping and the Waste and Overflow is in good condition if not replace prior to the installation of the new Bath Tub
  • Put Bath Tub into place in-line with the drain
  • Place gasket in-between Bath Tub and the connecting drain piece
  • Kneed some putty roughly the size of a fat pen and gently press into the underside of the Tub Drain Strainer
  • Using a Tub Wrench gently catch and thread the strainer into the Female drain part on the Waste and Overflow ensuring a water tight seal
  • Place overflow gasket in-between the Bath Tub and the Connecting Drain Pipe from Waste and Overflow
  • Install Overflow harness to the bathtub secures piping to the Bath Tub and Ensures a Water Tight Seal
  • Install Overflow Plate
  • Test Tub By running water, then filling it so it can prove water tight full, and then run water down the overflow tub
  • Leaks occur you may have to replace parts or disassemble and adjust and re-install
  • No leaks present you may finish walls if applicable